Dirt cheap 914 shell in Portland ($1000)
Looks like this seller already collects 914s for V8 swaps. Not sure how many he plans on converting, but he’s got one too many at this point. Find it here on Craigslist.
Looks like this seller already collects 914s for V8 swaps. Not sure how many he plans on converting, but he’s got one too many at this point. Find it here on Craigslist.
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Just got off the phone with Renegade, and I got some bad news. They had some issues with the flywheel, so they are currently in the process of redesign. I was told that the prototype is nearing completion, but it will be at least a couple of weeks until it’s ready for production. Not really sure what I should tackle now… I got 8 packages waiting for pickup in Buffalo, but there’s no point in driving down without the kit. I guess I’ll use the time off to get serious about my job search.
If you plan on doing this through Renegade, do yourself a favour and order the kit as early as possible. I placed an order at the end of January and I’m still waiting.
Here’s a rundown of things that need to be done:
This is all I have for now. Thanks for following guys, and sorry about the lack of updates.
Vlad
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Hey guys! Not much to update this week as I’m pretty much waiting on 90% of the parts to finish this build. I’m getting everything shipped to the same location in Buffalo to save on border fees. Once my engine mount kit is here, the build should really pick up.
Here are some pictures of my electric power steering conversion. There is no room in the engine bay to run a belt pump, so this conversion is a must! I am using a Vauxhal Astra power steering pump that I purchased from UK. I believe this is the same model pump as Porsche uses in their GT3 cars. The pump itself was pretty cheap, but it’s the shipping that killed me. The pump fits perfectly in the front trunk, on the opposite side of the brake master cylinder. This is a good location, since it won’t take up your trunk space, and its excellent for wiring.
Things you will need:
-The 8 gauge wires will go directly to the battery and ground. Put the 80A circuit breaker on the power wire.
-There are three other small wires, but I don’t think the brown/white one is used for anything. You need +12 in the other two wires in order for the pump to run. The best way to do this is to wire the black one to the ignition wire, and the blue/white one the alternator dash light. This will ensure that the pump is on only when the alternator is running. You can also wire one of these to a switch, should you need to turn off your power steering. I used a relay in my setup just to keep the power steering pump separate from the rest of the car wiring.
-You will need to figure out a way to hook up the -6 AN return line to the power steering pump. The easiest way to do this is to cut the stainless housing and stretch out the core until it slides over, and then use a hose clamp. This is a low pressure return, so it shouldn’t be a problem.
-You will need a custom mounting bracket for the pump. I just got nylon working on my 3D printer, so hopefully I can make something with that.
I don’t have too many good pictures at the moment, but I will update them once I get the pump in.
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I managed to get Nylon filament to print reliably. These parts should be much stronger than PLA/ABS and also much more heat resistant. I used Taulman 618 filament and Garolite G10 print platform. Here are some pics of the process.
3D Printing Nylon. Should make stronger and better heat resistant parts. #3DPrinting #nylon #customparts #taulman618 #makerbot
A video posted by Boxster LS (@porschelsx) on